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WEAVING AND TEXTILE OF BHUTAN
The fact that the Bhutanese textiles being relatively expensive and not meant for trade with the outside world is explained by social and economic factors. With the country's geographical situation in the high mountains of Himalayas, most people live in semi-isolation and produced any objects and textiles for their use. What one sees in the market is the surplus production. The Bhutanese textiles are relatively expensive then those if compared to other Asian countries. However, the Bhutanese textiles are worth if one analyzes the hardship and time taken to weave and if one does a proper costing on the woven piece. Definitely, the demand exceeds supply due to shortage of labor and the new existence of the upper social class.
Each region has its specialties: Bura, raw silk textiles are woven in eastern Bhutan (Tashigang). The fine silk textiles like the Kushuthara and Ngosham are woven in Kurtoe (Lhuntse), Kushuthara and Ngosham are special kind of design woven with silk and it is regarded as the most intricately woven Bhutanese textile. Kushuthara normally, has a white background color while Ngosham has blue, black, green, red or yellow.
The Yathra and other woolen textiles are woven in central Bhutan (Bumthang). The fabrics are usually woven by women at homes. The women from eastern and central region are well known for their weaving skill. For women in the villages weaving is an off season task and for those living in the urban areas it is a supplementary income to the husband's salary.
As winter comes after the agricultural season, its is interesting to see the women in Khoma village (Lhuntse) as they weave on their back strap looms in rows in the harvested paddy field. The famous weave patterns like the Kushuthara and Ngosham with fine silk are woven here. Every women, daughters, sisters and friends are all involved in weaving for the next 3 winter months. In Khoma, the heart of weaving tradition in Lhuntse region, several groups of weavers work in different locations in the village. Some households have as many as 3 -4 women weaving the Kushuthara or Ngosham.
It is customary for all Khomazam (women in Khoma village) to know and learn the finely honed art of weaving the Kushuthara and Ngosham that has been passed down from generation to generation. Young girls learn the art of weaving as young as seven or eight. All women in Khoma can weave and there is no exception for the young ones. As beginners, the young girls learn to weave on cotton background with supplementary designs in fine silk; they have their mother by their side who directs them. Completion of every weave sets a new course for the young girls to weave different pattern/design. Getting into the actual task of weaving and sewing up designs for 12 hours a day can be eye straining. Weavers can only weave 2 - 3 inches a day on the intricate design patterns.